F1 Challenge Austin GP. 126 Views 4 weeks ago Sochi 2014. 155 Views 4 weeks ago 2007 GGSF1 Trackpack. 200 Views 4 weeks ago DTM 2001 Skinpack. F1 2017 MainBK. 170 Views 1 month ago How Fix Multiplayer Mode. 131 Views 1 month ago Hans System. 107 Views 1 month ago F3000 2004 Season.

• F1 Challenge 99-02 Setup Guide
• F1 Challenge 99 02 Car Setup Download

F1 Challenge 99-02 Setup Guide

F1 Challenge Driving Guide Version 1.0 First of all I should point out that this guide will not be quite as useful to the fastest drivers on the sim racing scene (Max Dell'Orco, Dom Duhan, Dominik Binz, Greger Huttu, Dave Nicol, Adam Dodd, Markus Kononen, Brad McGiveron etc). They are all extremely talented and they each know exactly how to set up the game (and car) to suit their own driving styles, I can't see anything in this guide been of great use to them as they are already driving on the limit of human possibility. Opening Comments. Setting Up The Game. Player (PLR) File Editing. Setting Up Your Steering Wheel.

Driving Aids. Traction Control. Choosing A Good Car. Driving Techniques. Turn-In -9.4. Hitting The Apex.

Throttle Control - Finding The Limit. Side Note - The 'Differential Lock'. Gear Selection. A Note From The Experts. Driving Online.

Replays And Telemetry. Closing Comments. Useful Links.

Opening Comments. When I drive online against people who aren't quite as quick (or people who are really struggling) they often ask how certain lap times are possible.

Normally I simply respond by saying 'I practice a lot, and I work on my setups'. Which is true but also a bit of a cheap way to end the conversation - I don't have to go into detail about anything and at the same time the advice of 'practice' is quite a good piece of advice to give. This sometimes leads to people asking for my setup and (depending on the current FSR league race) I'm normally happy to provide it. It's not always a useful quick fix though - yes there are times where I've given someone a setup and they have suddenly driven a lot faster but there are other times where it hasn't helped at all. When someone is driving 1.28's at the new Hockenheim circuit (with a steering wheel) and giving them a setup capable of low 1.15's doesn't help them go any faster it's obvious there is another reason for the lack of speed.

When I talk to people in this situation I often find that they haven't got a clue about setting up the game, how to make sure their steering wheel is set up correctly or on some occasions even use basic driving lines. That's why I decided to write this guide. I am not the fastest driver in the world - I can name many drivers who are capable of driving faster than I ever have, but I still believe I drive at a very competitive level. I will offer all the advice I can and give all the information I have learnt; If this guide helps only one person to improve their lap times I will be happy. Setting Up The Game. For F1 simulations you really need a steering wheel and although not everyone has one I personally have used steering wheels since the release of 'Monaco Grand Prix: Racing Simulation 2' - as a result everything in this guide will be written assuming a steering wheel is the controller as that is my own experience. I drive without any driving aids.

This is something I have always done and whenever I buy a new racing sim the first thing I do is turn off any available driving aids. So I'm writing the guide from this point of view, I don't use Traction Control or Automatic Gears or anything else. I know a lot of people use those two aids specifically (as it matches to real F1 today) - hopefully they will still find some useful information. One of the things I love about the EA F1 games is that they have plenty of options to adjust in the menus and lots of scope for customising the game to suit many different people. I will go through some of the more important options now; It is best to leave 'Tyre Wear' and 'Mechanical Failures' turned on as these are often used online and in Hotlap competitions. You can go a bit quicker if they are turned off but I think most people prefer realism and in real life the tyres wear out and the engines blow up (if pushed too hard). 'Fuel Usage' is another setting where it is better to have it turned on for two reasons; Obviously most online sessions have fuel usage turned on (as again it is realistic) but another reason is simply to get used to driving the car with fuel onboard.

If you always drive with fuel usage turned off and then you suddenly have to drive a 15 lap race with fuel onboard it can be a huge shock - of course you would expect the lap times to be slower but the extra weight can really make you struggle as suddenly the car doesn't slow down in the same distances and it doesn't respond in turns the way it normally would. Personally I often turn fuel usage off if I am testing a qualifying setup because it allows me to do lap after lap without having to stop for fuel (and when you drive a qualifying lap online you will only have 2 or 3 laps of fuel anyway), but I still do plenty of testing with fuel onboard (online and offline). It is definitely worth having experience of the car with a heavy fuel load and also to learn to adjust your setups so they last a race distance. Cockpit view or TV-Camera style onboard view.?

I use the standard cockpit view myself and most of the fastest drivers seem to use the same (though there are some exceptions). For me it's mainly down to realism (I want to feel as though I'm in the car), but it's also down to turn-in accuracy - although you can see more of the track and upcoming turns with the TV-Cam view I actually find the standard cockpit view much more accurate when it comes to choosing a turn-in point. So I will always use the cockpit view but I don't see anything wrong with people using the TV-Cam view in leagues etc - some people think the TV-Cam view gives an advantage as it is higher up but I've tested both and I didn't notice much difference in the lap times (I certainly wasn't faster with the TV-Cam view). One thing this game did make me realise is the number of people using 'kmh' for measuring their top speed.

When I drive online and I mention a speed in 'mph' I nearly always get the response of 'what's that in kmh?' I live in the UK and I often forget that a lot of other countries use 'kmh' to measure speed - obviously you should use whatever is the standard in your country but it's best to know how to convert from one to another if you end up discussing top speeds online; To convert from 'mph' to 'kmh' multiply the speed by 1.6093 To convert from 'kmh' to 'mph' divide the speed by 1.6093 Another tip when setting up the game is to lower the Engine volume. By default they are set quite high but I find that lowering the Engine volume to 40% and keeping the Sound Effects at around 95% allows me to hear what the tyres are doing much more easily - I know when I am locking up, spinning the wheels or screeching the tyres. It might not be as realistic to actually hear these sounds so well but at the same time you don't have the benefit of being in a real F1 car and feeling the behaviour of the car and the tyres on the circuit. Player (PLR) File Editing.

F1 Challenge 99 02 Car Setup Download

There are many well known options you can change simply by using notepad to edit the.PLR file (C: F1Challenge Save YourName YourName.PLR). This is a list of the most popular option changes (the option numbers are already edited in this list so if you want the effect described here simply change the number in your.PLR file to the same number from this list); Half Rate='0' - Enables a super-high physics rate which uses more CPU power to calculate extra vehicle physics parameters and gives a more realistic feel to the car. This will normally make your lap times slightly slower as the car is more difficult to drive quickly over the curbs. No AI Control='1' - The computer will never take control of your car (so you can still drive when the race has finished). AutoBlip='0' - Removes the brake assistance icon from your telemetry laps (this is a bug in the game). Obviously this is assuming you don't actually use brake assistance.

Tire Sampling='1' - Should make the car's reaction slightly more realistic over sharp curbs. Other Volume Ration='0.70000' - Lowers the volume of the other vehicle engines so they don't totally drown out your own (this was recommended by one of the game developers). LCD Display Modes='7' - Allows you to see all pages on the in-car steering wheel display in the cockpit view (Lap Time, Pit Stop/Fuel, Tyre Temp, Driving Aids, Engine and Brake Temp). Locked Pit Cam='0' - Allows you can stay in the cockpit view during pitstops. Crash Recovery='0' - The game will not automatically leave your car upright after a crash (you can end up stuck upside down for good). It is more realistic.

Setting Up Your Steering Wheel. This is one of the most important steps when you are setting up a racing sim and in the EA F1 games it is more important than ever - these settings can easily effect the lap times you are capable of driving.

There are some general settings which seem to suit most steering wheels but these are the three steering wheels I have used with F1 2002 and F1 Challenge; Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback Logitech Momo Force Thrustmaster Ferrari F1 Replica;.Review link posted for the Thrustmaster F1 steering wheel as not many people seem to know about it; I must be honest and say I never noticed much difference between the three of them in terms of lap times but the Momo has slightly more degrees of travel until you reach full lock (it is also probably the most comfortable to use). First of all you should setup your steering wheel and pedals correctly using Windows 'Game Controllers' - each steering wheel has it's own unique page here and some have more options than others; some wheels also come with their own software (separate from Game Controllers) which you can use to adjust the axis properties.

It's best to leave most of the axis, steering and sensitivity settings in this Windows based software at the default settings, however with certain wheels (Microsoft) you might want to increase the sensitivity of the actual steering wheel axis slightly as this can improve turn-in. Other than that the main thing you should do in Windows is make sure your pedals are setup to use 'split' (or 'separate') axis - this means each pedal will be assigned it's own separate axis and they will work independantly (meaning you can use both pedals at the same time for more advanced driving techniques). If you don't do this (and instead leave the pedals using a single 'Combined' axis) they will override each other and you will only be able to use one pedal at a time. For the Microsoft and Logitech wheels this 'split'/'separate' axis setting is normally found in the Windows 'Game Controllers' page but for the Thrustmaster Ferrari F1 wheel this setting can only be changed by using the profiler software that comes with the steering wheel (installed from the CD).

Now I will go through the in-game steering wheel settings from the F1 Challenge Controllers Options pages; The Calibration page is quite simple - you use it to assign your pedals, steering wheel, clutch button and any keyboard commands you might want. One thing you should do here is remember to calibrate your pedals two or three times in a row (click on accerator, press the pedal, click on brake, press the pedal and repeat a few times) - this should make sure you have full pedal travel. You need full pedal travel - in other words when you press the accelerator down very slightly when stationary in 1st gear the car should react and start creeping forward straight away - if you have to press your throttle pedal halfway down before the car does anything your pedals are not set up with full travel. On some wheels (Microsoft) the game will only recognise half of the pedal travel the first time you calaibrate them but if you calibrate them a second time it often recognises your pedal setup properly (split axis etc) and then gives full axis travel for each pedal. So it's worth doing this to make sure your pedals are setup correctly.

Post Filters Rules and Regulations. Follow Reddiquette. Keep it civil and on topic. No witch hunting or calling out other users. Posts must be directly related to Simracing. Topics about racing hardware, sims, and racing are allowed.

Topics about anything outside of those are not. Spoilers and NSFW posts must be properly marked. Discussion or links to jailbreaking / hacking / cheating / fraud / piracy / account trading and sharing / e.t.c. Is not allowed. Memes, image macros, reaction gifs and low quality posts are sometimes not allowed. Polls or petitions are only allowed as text posts, with a description of the poll, and link to poll, in the text body. Original user made content is generally allowed.

Excessive self promotion or promotion for financial gain is not allowed. You know the difference. Other sim racing subreddits -. I'm assuming that 'push' means understeer (or the front tires washing out). There a number of things that you can do to reduce corner exit understeer. Loosening the front sway bar, reducing the differential power% and adjusting toe in/out are some I can think of on the top of my head.

Something like that is good resource for troubleshooting car behavior and what you can do to fix it. Just make minor changes one at a time and see if it feels better/is faster. Setting up F1 cars is incredibly complicated. Getting a car that's both balanced and fast is really difficult.